ABOUT ACE LUB-E: (Because I think it is excellent guitar info to pass around, and this makes it easy to do so).
Ace Lub-E is specifically formulated to be innocuous to metals, plastics and finishes. For at least 25 years that I've known about Lub-E, the label on it's can has said it is harmless to most surfaces including plastic, ....and such a liable statement would not be made if Ace didn't know for sure that Lub-E is indeed innocuous to most surfaces. It is made from the "same" (similar / compatible) petroleum bases that plastics and finishes are made from, and will actually replenish oils that have evaporated from plastics and finishes. ------- On the other hand, for instance, WD40 has a mild acid that helps it penetrate corroded metal, but WD40's acid will actually deteriorate plastics, and will corrode metals after prolonged use or use on some vulnerable materials. WD40 used to be used extensively on aircraft for corrosion control until about 25 years ago when it was found that WD40 had gotten into hidden cracks and crevices and it's acid had compromised structural integrity, and thus quickly fell out of favor as a corrosion control agent. Subsequent to that time Ace Lub-E has been the only oil I use to shine and protect metal and plastic guitar surfaces; And I use it extensively to refresh and even refurbish oils in finishes. It has never harmed anything I put it on. But again, ONLY spray it onto a soft rag for application. After sitting for the desired time and purpose of treatment, it can be wiped with a soft clean cloth to remove slickness if desired, ...or it can be left without a wipe down for a light corrosion control coating. Such a protective coating can be seen on page 1 of this Chandler tele's webpages. And again, wet oil should never be applied directly to a guitar because wet oils can easily creep into small spaces where it can get into and soften raw wood. |